Ford Explorer Factory Amplifier
Bypass Help Page
By Chris Zahrt

This is the Install I Did while gathering the information to make this page.  1997 Ford Explorer.

Many people are getting frustrated after they install an after market tape or CD player in there Explorer or Mountaineer.  You think you did every thing right.  You bought yourself a nice deck, a good dash kit, and even the wiring harness so you can swap your new deck with the factory again more easily if you ever sell or trade in the vehicle.  The common problem is that everything appears to be connected correctly but you are not getting any sound out of the speakers.

The reason for this is simple.  Your amplified signal from your new deck intended to power your speakers has found a road block on it's trip.  This 'block' is the factory amplifier.

It is located behind the rear right plastic paneling.(Passenger Side)


Click for Larger Image

In order to get your deck playing like you want to using existing factory wiring you are going to have to by pass this factory amp.  There are 2 ways to do this: 1.. Either buy yourself a harness that will simply plug into both the input and output plugs after you disconnect them from the factory amp or 2.. Hard wire these two sets of wires together manually.  (This is what I did), (This can be a bit of pain with out the wire colors), (Also how I had to go about doing it. Arg!)

You are going to save some money if you just butt connect or screw the bypass together but you are also going to be making things much harder to change back to the way they were then it would be if you used the harnace method.

Tools
Philips Screw Driver
7/32" Socket
T-50 Tork Socket
Butter Knife (optional)
Wire Stripers (depends)
Wire Crimpers (depends)
Electrical Tape (depends)

Getting it done
Decide if you are going to use a harnace to by pass your factory amp or if you are going to cut the wires and reconnect them.

Harnace Method
1. Get your deck/dash kit/harness for deck and get it installed ( you should not get any sound after this. That is why this site is here)
2. Buy your harnace and have it ready.
3. Remove the Plastic Paneling (see panel removal)
4. Unplug the 2 plugs from the factory amp and connect the harnace in between them.
5. Put the panel back in place and enjoy your new deck and the music that it is finally producing.

Cut and Rewire Method (save about $15-20)
1. Get your deck/dash kit/harness for deck and get it installed ( you should not get any sound after this. That is why this site is here)
2. Get either butt connectors or wire screws
3. Remove the Plastic Paneling (see panel removal)
4. Unplug the 2 plugs from the factory amp and cut them off
5. Use the wire colors and plug diagrams below as reference and strip and connect the 2 sets of wires together.
6. Isolate the 12v + power with electrical tape to prevent arcing

Panel Removal
1. Remove the plastic cover on the top part of the seat belt and use the t-50 to remove the bolt
2. Use the 7/32" socket to remove the clothes hanger hook about the rear right door.
3. Pull up the carpet and the padding along the edge of the big plastic panel to expose the 2 philips screws.  Remove them.
4. Pop the rear plastic trim underneath the hatch on the floor up and remove it
5. Now all that is holding the panel in place are the plastic push clips.  You can use a butter knife to pry them lose or just simply pull on the panel (easier and effective)
6. You now should be able to pull the panel away from the wall and get at the factory amp.  Some maneuvering of the fold down seat and seat belt may be required but it is rather easy.
7.  When done the panel goes back in place the same way it came off.  be sure to pound the plastic connectors back in place with your hand so the panel is not lose anywhere.
Note:  If you are going to be installing any after market amps I would suggest running the RCA's while the panel is off.  There is lots of room for doing so behind there.

In conclusion I hope that this page has help aide in your pursuit of audio bliss
 

If you feel this page was of significant help to you please take a moment to contribute to the time it took me to put this page together and to the possibility of future pages like it in the future.

Thanks
Chris Zahrt
Contact


1991-1994
Signal Input Connector
Pin Position Function Wire Color
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Right Rear (-)
(NC)
(NC)
Left Front (+)
Right Rear (+)
Right Front (-)
Right Front (+)
Left Rear (-)
Left Rear (+)
Left Front (-)
Lt. Blue
--
--
Lt. Green
Violet/White
Brown
White/Red
Yellow
Blue/Black
White/Orange
Speaker Output & Power In Connector
Pin Position Function Wire Color
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
12v (+)
Ground
Remote
(NC)
(NC)
(NC)
Left Front (+)
Left Front (-)
Left Rear (+)
Left Rear (-)
Right Front (+)
Right Front (-)
Right Rear (+)
Right Rear (-)
Yellow
Black/Green
Blue
--
--
--
Orange/Green
Blue/White
Pink/Green
Brown/Yellow
White/Green
Green/Orange
Orange/Red
Black/White


1995+

Signal Input Connector
Pin Position Function Wire Color
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Right Rear (-)
Left Front (+)
Right Rear (+)
Right Front (-)
Right Front (+)
Left Rear (-)
Left Rear (+)
Left Front (-)
Lt. Blue
Lt. Green
Violet/White
Brown
White/Red
Yellow
Blue/Black
White/Orange
Speaker Output & Power In Connector
Pin Position Function Wire Color
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
12v (+)
Ground
Remote
(NC)
(NC)
(NC)
Left Front (+)
Left Front (-)
Left Rear (+)
Left Rear (-)
Right Front (+)
Right Front (-)
Right Rear (+)
Right Rear (-)
Yellow
Black/Green
Blue
--
--
--
Orange/Green
Blue/White
Pink/Green
Brown/Yellow
White/Green
Green/Orange
Orange/Red
Black/White

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